When I made my original decision about the wheels and tires on this car, I determined that I wanted a full size spare on a full size rim. Having a spare tire in the trunk provides insurance against the possibility of a certain kind of road hazard. Admittedly, the likelihood of this occurrence is pretty small, and the likelihood of it happening outside of cell phone and tow truck coverage is miniscule. Still, for almost a year I stowed the full size spare in the trunk. It wasn't a whitewall like the others, but it was exactly the same size... and it took up half the space in the trunk! It was also awkward to remove, since it was bulky and must weigh about 50 pounds.
At one of the first cruise nights this summer, I met a guy with a '57 bird who had a compact spare in the trunk. It was one of those collapsible jobs that they don't make any more... like the one that came in my '87 Firebird. This kind of spare needs a CO2 cartridge and/or electric pump to inflate it before it can be used. While it worked when I needed it on my Firebird, the cartridge/pump does take up more space and is one more thing that can go wrong.
When I started preparing for our trip up Highway 1, I kept thinking about all that room and weight in the trunk taken up by the spare. I started looking for a compact spare that might serve, and eventually got a Ford-style 4 1/2 x 16 aluminum rim spare with T145/80D16 tire on eBay for $50. This one was off a 98 or 99 Lincoln Town Car, but the same wheel/tire is used on Crown Vics and Mustangs. I didn't know if it would fit, but I lucked out:
Since the car has been lowered a little, I was concerned about ground clearance. The spare is 1 1/2" smaller diameter than the stock tires, but this isn't really a problem. |
I took on another minor improvement after returning from the convention. The driver side mirror had come loose in an awkward spot, and was rattling so badly that it was pretty much useless on the freeway. The problem is in the way the stainless mirror shell is riveted to the ball joint. I couldn't get to the back of the rivet without popping the glass out of the shell, and I really didn't know how to do that without breaking the glass. What to do? JB Weld to the rescue!
JB Weld is basically 2-part epoxy fortified with fine iron filings, and it's pretty tough stuff. Filling the gap between the stainless shell and the ball post with this stuff tightened up the joint and eliminated the rattle, for far less than the cost of a replacement mirror head. Since the passenger's side was a little loose too, I went ahead and did the same treatment on that side. This may be a temporary fix, but I'm happy with it for now. When I reassembled the mirrors, I applied a very thin layer of white grease on the joints to make them easier to adjust.
I'm getting ready for another life milestone in November. God continues to bless me. I will have to elaborate on that in my next post.
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